This is a partial archive of the wines of the week featured by Chris and Sherry Hardie in the La Crosse Tribune, Winona Daily News and Chippewa Herald newspapers. These wines are listed in order, as they were printed in the paper.

2010

Barefoot Sauvignon Blanc

Our traditional value wine of the new year comes from one of the country’s largest and fastest-growing winemakers.

Barefoot had sales increase from 2 million to 3 million cases over the past year. It became a national brand in 1996, one year after it was bought by wine giant Gallo.

Making cheap wine means you have to control costs. That’s why this bottle – and others from Barefoot – is non-vintage. That allows the winemaker to mix and blend grapes from year-to-year, depending on the price.

Don’t confuse cheap with bad. This wine displays the typical tropical fruit flavors of a sauvignon blanc and went well with our meal of organic roast chicken and wild rice.   

Sherry: “Lime, lemon and pineapple with a hint of almond finish.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Pineapple, grapefruit and melon with grassy notes.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $5.50

Coming next week: Torres Sangre d Toro

Torres Sangre de Toro 2006

2009

J. Lohr Valdiguie 2007

This is our traditional New Year value wine that still satisfies the palate without draining the pocketbook.
Valdiguie (pronounced val-de-gay) used to be called Napa Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais in California, but DNA testing has revealed it is not the Gamay Noir variety used in French Beaujolais.
However, the native Rhone grape does make a delightfully soft and light wine in the Beaujolais style. This Monterey California wine spends no time in oak and is fermented in a style that keeps the fruit fresh. Best served young and slightly chilled. It’s also an excellent choice as a first step for those who resolve in 2009 to move from white wine to red.
Sherry: “Soft, light and fruity with blackberry and strawberry flavors” (3 stars)
Chris: “Simple black cherry and blackberry.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $6.
Coming next week: Yalumba Shiraz Viognier

Blackstone Merlot 2006

The much maligned merlot which declined in sales for a few years after being bashed in the movie “Sideways” has recovered and continues to be the top-selling wine in the country.

Blackstone merlot is the top-selling domestic wine, claiming 16 percent of the market as recently as last year. Blackstone is part of the wine giant Constellation but is proof that big is not necessarily bad.

Many merlots are fruit bombs that are so soft they become a glass of uninspiring wine that may be easy to drink but not distinguishable.

The fruit is foremost in this merlot, but is nicely balanced with the oak and tannins to provide a pleasurable wine from start to finish.

Sherry: “Bright, fruity raspberry, cherry and licorice.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Blackberry aromas, cherry flavor with a hint of cocoa and a mint finish.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Grahams Six Grapes Reserve Port

2008

Vampire Pinot Noir 2006

Here’s a new year’s resolution that will be easy to keep – have some fun in the world of wine that often takes itself too seriously.
Instead of always grabbing old reliable off the shelf, take a chance on different label and explore. You may be pleasantly surprised.
That was certainly the case with this whimsical choice. Vampire Vineyards is a virtual winery from California that sources grapes from around the world, including some from Transylvania.
This ruby (not blood) red pinot is actually French, which it displays with a pleasant approach akin to good earth, certainly not of a moldering coffin. Still young, this bold pinot may not be immortal, but it should age well for a few years and it won’t take a big bite out of your wallet.
Sherry: “A pleasant berry bouquet with a dry, leathery cherry and raspberry flavor.” (3 stars)
Chris: “A silky texture nicely balanced with strawberry and cherry.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Fetzer Sauvignon Blanc

Fetzer Valley Oaks Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Being a big winery doesn’t always mean being bad, as long as you pay attention to the little things.
Fetzer, the nation’s sixth-largest winery, makes a lot of wine but focuses on the detail to produce a pretty consistent and reliable product, which starts with organic and sustainable practices in the vineyard and continues through the harvest and production. 
While the New Zealand style of sauvignon blanc has exploded in popularity over the past 10 years, so has the price. Here is a California version that captures the fine qualities of a sauvignon – tropical fruit, citrus flavors, floral nuances and hints of fresh-cut grass – for well under $10. That’s a good, old-fashioned American bargain.
Sherry: “Citrusy grapefruit with a lovely apricot finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Grapefruit and lemon with a dash of mineral.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $6.
Coming next week: LeGrand Noir

Le Grand Noir 2004

Translating French wine labels can be very confusing, but not as perplexing as a wine that calls itself “The Black Sheep” when the literal translation is “The Big Black One.”
But being irreverent and different is precisely the purpose for this red wine from the south of France. It is designated as a high class table wine, one step below the top of the line French designation. The blend (60 percent cabernet sauvignon and 40 percent shiraz) from different vineyards makes it a black sheep in the eyes of the snobby chateau crowd.
Au contraire, this is a delightful, fun wine that’s certainly not sheepish. Dark fruits and spice combine for a medium body, soft tannins and a pleasant finish.
Sherry: “Dry raspberry and black cherry with a subtle coconut finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Spicy currant with a dash of black pepper.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Blackstone Chardonnay

Blackstone Chardonnay Monterey County 2005

We’ve stated before that we’re not huge chardonnay fans, but obviously there are a lot of you out there. Chardonnay still dominates the U.S. retail wine sales, with a 20 percent market share. That’s nearly twice that of second place cabernet sauvignon, according to The Nielsen Co.
Wine Spectator gave the 2004 vintage of this chardonnay 86 points out of 100, which drew our attention. However, we were not overwhelmed. The lovely tropical nose of this wine just didn’t reveal itself in the taste and the wine lacked the creamy finish that we look for.
For chardonnay fans seeking a citrus, tart wine without the cream, this may be a good choice. We’ll continue looking, which is part of the fun.
Sherry: “Tart lime with a slight almond finish.” (2.5 stars)
Chris: “Lemon with a hint of pineapple.” (2.5 stars)
Available locally for $7.50.
Coming next week: Rosso Fourplay 

Fourplay Rosso 2005

Wine word play is always fun, but it’s even more enjoyable when the stuff inside the bottle is as memorable as the catchy moniker on the label.
Fourplay is an equal blend of four indigenous grapes from the island of Sicily – frappato nero, nerello cappucio, nerello mascalese and nero d’avola. Don’t worry; there won’t be a test on these names anytime soon. But what you should remember is that blends like Fourplay open up many new exciting wines not possible when you restrict yourself to one grape variety. We embrace grape diversity.
This is a soft wine (no oak aging) with juicy red fruit and a hint of earth. Fourplay is a pleasant stimulation of the senses.
Sherry: “Fruity, black cherry and raspberry with a little earthiness.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “A dusty nose, with a blend of raisin and cherry and a mint finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: Spaletti Chianti

Spalleti Chianti 2005

"When the world seems to shine like you've had too much wine, that's amore."

Old Dean Martin got it right when he sang about love and wine. In Italy, the two go hand-in-hand, which is why delicious chianti is a perfect choice for your special Valentine's dinner this year.

Spaletti is a relative newcomer to the Italian wine market, with commercial production not starting until 1912. But this is classic chianti just the same, with ripe red berries mingled with aromas of earth, leather and herbs. The 100 percent sangiovese wine is aged for six months in oak for a medium body. This would be an excellent companion with a meal of chicken parmesan.

Sherry: "Simple, but good. Dry raspberry with a subtle almond finish." (3.5 stars)

Chris: "Black cherry with a hint of clove." (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $12.

Coming next week: Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling

Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling 2006

So how does one define a dry wine? The answer is in your taste buds, but technically dry wine is the measure of residual sugar remaining in the wine after fermentation is complete.

Does that mean wine with more residual sugar is sweeter? Perhaps, but acidity and alcohol levels of wine also are major factors and can play all sorts of tricks on your buds. Dry or sweet, the fun is in the tasting.

This is the first vintage of dry riesling Chateau Ste. Michelle has released outside the Pacific Northwest. Why did they wait so long? Made in the “trocken” (dry) German style, this wine has fragrant fruit, a crisp taste and clean finish.

Sherry: “A delightful blend of citrus, green apple, apricot and spice.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Apple and peach aromas with a cleansing citrus mouth.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $9.

Coming next week: Frescobaldi Remole

Frescobaldi Remole Toscana 2004

The Italian wine industry is steeped in tradition and not many families run deeper than Frescobaldi, which has 30 generations and 700 years of wine-making.

But Remole is not a traditional wine by those standards and actually falls under the Super Tuscan category, a name coined in the 1970s when Italy changed its wine classification categories. Super Tuscans are wines with at least 85 percent of the grapes grown in the region. Remole is 85 percent sangiovese and 15 percent cabernet sauvignon.

Emerging from the glass are aromas of red fruit and Tuscan earth. The soft tannins make it pleasant on the palate and a wine to be enjoyed without further aging. Perhaps not super, but pretty darn enjoyable.

Sherry: “Smooth and earthy with elements of cassis and licorice. (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Nicely balanced cherry flavors with a sprinkle of peppery spice.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $9.

Coming next week: Coppola Rosso Classic

Rosso Classic 2005

Films are a lot like wine. Some are wonderful, some are OK and others are skunks. Perhaps that’s why Francis Ford Coppola makes both.

We recently bought a heavily discounted DVD of Coppola’s 1992 “Dracula” movie, which frankly was all about style and presentation, with not a lot of substance, despite the all-star cast.

Happily that’s not the case with this red wine, which has an easy-drinking style with enough structure and fruit to provide the substance. A blend of zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, there’s plenty of alcohol heat (13.5 percent), but not over the top.

 Not an Oscar-winner, but an experience worth repeating and a pretty good value as well.

Sherry: “Peppery cherry and raspberry with a hint of raisin.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Black cherry, licorice and spice.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Aveleda Vinho Verde

Aveleda Vinho Verde 2007

Portugal is famous for port and some of its Douro valley reds, but its largest wine region is Vinho Verde, which means green wine. The region is best known for its whites but some winemakers produce red varieties as well.

Vinho Verde is not a reference to color, but refers to the youth of the wine. This is a white, light, acidic, slightly sparkling wine blended from somewhat obscure grape varieties. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel and bottled a few months later.

The result is a very dry wine, with a natural effervescence wine connoisseurs call petillance and a body similar to brut champagne. The taste is mainly citrus, with a blend of other orchard fruits. Pucker up!

Sherry: “Light-bodied, with lemon, apple and pear with a subtle almond finish.” (2.5 stars)

Chris: “Zesty green apple, lemon and a mineral feel.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $7.

Coming next week: Valley of the Moon Zinfandel

Valley of the Moon Zinfandel 2005

Winemakers are perhaps the only people who pay as much attention to the weather and climate as farmers and meteorologists. Even slight climate changes from vineyard to vineyard can have a major impact on each vintage. 
Valley of Moon, located on the west edge of the Mayacamas Mountains in Sonoma County, Calif., takes advantage of a banana belt microclimate that runs through the area. Hot sunny afternoons are followed by cool, foggy Pacific Ocean evenings.
This climate grows old vine zinfandel grapes that provide the backbone to this wine, which is a blend of several grape varieties. Carrying aromas of strawberry and blackberry, the wine has berry flavors and the much anticipated and delightful trademark zinfandel spice.
Sherry: “Bold and peppery, with cherry, black currant and a touch of clove.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Jam-like on the front, but nicely balanced with toasty oak and a peppery finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $11.
Coming next week: Hogue Gewurztraminer

Hogue Gewurztraminer 2005

Hogue Cellars, a quality Washington state wine producer, was one of the first wineries to make extensive use of the screw cap, once synonymous with sweet, cheap wines.

Hogue changed to the screw caps after a four-year study showed the closures held the fruit taste of the wine and prevented oxidation better than conventional or artificial cork.

Preserving freshness and fruit is extremely important in an aromatic wine like gewürztraminer. Lovely aromas of honeysuckle and peach rise from the glass, followed by stone fruit flavors and the pleasant spice one expects with a quality gewürztraminer. Hogue uses cold, slow fermentation in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit flavors.

We suggest serving this wine with a pork roast or even spicy Oriental.

Sherry: “Lightly spiced pear and apple flavor.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Ripe peach and pineapple with a medium body.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir  

Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir 2006

Say Tasmania and many will think of the frenetic, whirling cartoon character on the Saturday morning Bug’s Bunny episodes that destroyed anything in its path.  

While the carnivorous marsupial with a vicious temperament does exist, the more gentle side of this Australian island is the climate, which is ideal for growing cooler climate grapes like pinot noir. Tamar Ridge did not plant vines until 1994, but is a quick study.

This is a light-bodied wine with a pleasant balance of red fruits and spice, along with a signature pinot silkiness that rolls off the tongue. Many pinots seem to be overpriced these days, but this one delivers quality.

Sherry: “Dry, fruity cherry flavor with a light clove and licorice finish.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Plum, cherry and a hint of earth.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $13.

Coming next week: Christian Moueix Bordeaux

Christian Moueix Merlot Bordeaux 2003

Chateau Petrus is a legendary French Bordeaux from Christian Moueix in such high demand it costs a stratospheric $2,000 a bottle upon release.
Since that’s a little out of our price range, we have to settle for a Moueix Bordeaux that costs about $1,990 less but is still a very good wine.
Moueix eschews the fruit-dominated New World merlots and believes that a fine Bordeaux should be dominated by earth and elements.
This wine will challenge you. It expresses aromas of earth, leather and minerals, certainly not in an unpleasant way. That earthiness carries over into the mouth, where it melds with ripe fruit and lingers on the tongue. Serve with food – try beef or cheese -- for maximum enjoyment.
Sherry: “Fragrant, leathery and earthy, with cassis and black cherry.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Notes of earth unfold quite nicely into flavors of black cherry and raspberry.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Hey Mambo

Hey Mambo Red 2006

“Kid, you’re good-a-lookin’ but you don’t know what’s cookin, till you Hey Mambo! Mambo Italiano!”
Mambo Italiano, 1954, Bob Merrill

We’re still trying to get over the Zork, which is not an alien from the planet Ork, but rather a peel-off wine closure with a stopper atop Hey Mambo.
But it’s very easy to enjoy the wine, which Don Sebastiani and Sons calls a sultry red. It’s a blend of some of our favorite grapes – barbera, zinfandel, syrah and petite sirah – with a bit of the lesser known carignane and alicante bouchet grapes.
They do dance well together. This wine is not complicated and shows off immediately with aromas of berries, chocolate and a whiff of leather. The tannins are light, but there’s enough structure for it to be a great barbecue wine on a sultry summer evening.
Sherry: “Wonderfully fragrant and lightly smoky, with chocolate and black cherry.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Cherry-cola and caramelized coffee.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Wilson Creek Almond Champagne

Wilson Creek Almond Champagne

We’ve been married for more than 25 years and many of our tastes are the same. We both like champagne, but Sherry really likes almonds, much more than Chris.

So it was with both anticipation and reluctance that we tried this California sparkling wine, which is produced by the Wilson family in the Temecula Valley.

It says almond on the label and there’s no mistaking almond in either the aroma or the taste. That is accomplished with an infusion of almond oil and it is a best-seller for Wilson Creek.

The wine is sweeter than we both expected, but is very approachable and would be a nice party bubbly.

Sherry: “Flavors of apple, grape, subtle nutmeg and of course almond.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Cotton candy aroma, a bit of apple and a bit heavy on the almond.” (2.5 stars)

Available locally for about $14.

Coming next week: Redtree Petite Sirah

Redtree Petite Sirah 2005

Tracing the ancestry of the ever-evolving and expanding California wine industry would be a challenge for even the experienced genealogist.
Redtree is a brand new line of wines from The Cecchetti Wine Co., launched a year ago by Roy Cecchetti. Cecchetti was one of the co-founders of Sebastiani Cellar, largely known for its Pepperwood Grove line. Cecchetti sold his stake to his brother-in-law Don Sebastiani in 2003.
There’s always room in our cellar for a value-priced wine that delivers quality. We’re partial to petite sirah and found Redtree to our liking. The wine opens with dark fruit and berry aroma, delivers juicy berry flavors and has a medium body with soft tannins.
Sherry: “A fragrant and fruity blend of black cherry, licorice, spice and a touch of smokiness.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Blackberry and cherry with anise and earth.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $6.50.
Coming next week: Osborne Solaz Blanco Viura

Osborne Solaz Blanco Viura 2005

Spain has always been a major wine producer but is still overcoming its jug wine perception.

One reliable Spanish winemaker is Osborne, which was founded in 1772 by an Englishman and is now in the sixth generation of family ownership. The labels feature the bull icon, which has graced its bottles for nearly 50 years. We’ve enjoyed other Solaz labels on red wines, so we decided to try its white wine.

Viura – also known as macabeo in southern France – is a common grape in Spain. It grows well in hot and dry climates and can be consumed fresh or stands up to aging. This offering is fresh and citrus, with a hint of minerals.

Sherry: “Dry, tart lime and pineapple.” (2.5 stars)

Chris: “Citrus, a bit of melon and lemon-lime.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Luis Felipe Edwards Shiraz

Luis Felipe Edwards Shiraz

The proliferation of shiraz wines on the market is due largely to Australia, but the Aussies don’t have a corner on the market. Some of the finest shiraz – also called syrah – comes from its French homeland but even the New World has bragging rights.

This Chilean shiraz received a silver medal in the 2007 international syrah wine competition. The grapes are grown high on the steep, terraced slopes of the Andes Mountains foothills. The location provides plenty of sunshine, dry conditions and large daytime temperature differences.

The result is a ripe grape bursting with juicy flavors of blackberry and cherry crafted with a year of oak aging. It’s an elegant blend of intense fruit and spice.

Sherry: “Fruity cherry and blackberry with a leathery, clove finish.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Cherry, peppery and toasty oak.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $11.

Coming next week: Sonoma Creek Merlot

Sonoma Creek Merlot 2005

Merlot remains the top-selling red wine in the United States, a position it has held since 1999. That’s probably because of its soft and fruit-forward nature, which is much easier to swallow for wine drinkers who haven’t worked their way up to the more tannic reds.

This wine from Sonoma Creek offers a bit more sophistication, revealing some of the finer traits of merlot. Sonoma Creek says it values a wine’s terroir – the soil, climate and conditions that contribute to the personality of a wine. 

That is evident with this wine’s luscious fruit aromas and berry flavors that finishes softly with a wisp of smoke and bit of spice.

Sherry: “Dry raspberry and plum, with elements of leather and licorice.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Blackberry and plumb with a slight toasty finish.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $11.

Coming next week: Snoqualmie Sauvignon Blanc   

Snoqualmie Sauvignon Blanc 2005

The picnic basket is packed with cheese and crackers, apples and grapes and crusty bread to be drizzled with freshly pressed garlic cloves and olive oil.

A fine combination of picnic fare, but what wine could possibly match that variety of foods?

Try sauvignon blanc. With its natural acidity and tangy zest, the wine is a great choice to cut through all those flavors with a refreshing palate-cleansing crispness.

Snoqualmie is a Washington winery in the Columbia Valley, where the dry and sandy soils encourage excellent fruit growth. The result is a pleasant blend of citrus and melon flavors. With many New Zealand sauvignon blanc wines pushing $20, this wine is a bargain to boot. Pack a basket and enjoy.

Sherry: “Medium dry, grassy and lemon-line, with elements of minerals.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Melon and lemon in a crisp finish.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $6.

Coming next week: Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon

Sterling Vintner’s Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Sterling is a Napa Valley winery that was the first to release a vintage dated merlot in 1969, which changed the way the industry viewed what was previously thought to be just a blending grape.

Under the direction of head winemaker Mike Westrick – a former UW-Wisconsin professor – Sterling also makes some wonderful cabernet, including this affordable line. Cabernet remains the most widely-planted grape variety in California, covering nearly 76,000 acres in 2007.

This wine opens with the distinctive black currant and leathery aromas, with a wisp of smoke. The texture is full yet it’s surprisingly smooth, with a pleasant balance between wood and fruit. Try it with dark chocolate.

Sherry: “Peppery, smoky, leathery black cherry with a blackberry finish.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Smoke and wood, with blackberry fruit and a tease of cocoa.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $12.

Coming next week: Horseplay

Horseplay 2005

This is the debut vintage from White Rocket Wine Co. “inspired by the free-spirited playfulness of wild horses.”

Yes, another catchy label and marketing scheme, but don’t get caught with your blinders on. White Rocket may be new comes from fine breeding as part of the Kendall Jackson winery.

This wine features the traditional Meritage blend, featuring cabernet sauvignon (44 percent), merlot (39 percent) and syrah (17 percent). As the name suggests, this wine needs a little taming. We suggest giving your glass some breathing time to soften its strong tannins which can be overpowering at first taste.

Intense aromas of red fruit and musk give way to a spicy blend of fruit and toasty oak.

Sherry: “Black cherry with strong overtones of licorice and clove.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Cherry and blackberry layered in spice.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $10.

Coming next week: Natura Gewurztraminer

Natura Gewurztraminer 2007

Sales of organic wines have increased by double digits for several years, but overall they represent just 0.3 percent of table wine sales, according to AC Nielsen.

Wines sold in America cannot be labeled USDA organic even if the grapes are organic because almost all wineries add sulfites to their wine. So most natural wines are labeled “made with organically grown grapes.”

That’s the case with this Chilean wine from Casablanca Valley, which has a climate favorable for growing white wine grapes.

This is the first vintage of gewürztraminer for Natura, produced by Emiliana Vineyards. It has a typical gewürztraminer aromatic bouquet of flowers and peach, with a slightly sweet taste and a clean finish.

Sherry: “Apple and apricot with a light mineral finish.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Flowers and peach with a hint of spice.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $9.

Coming next week: Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz

Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz 2006

Shiraz is the king grape in Australia, accounting for about 40 percent of the country’s harvest.

Yellow Tail is a prominent purveyor of entry level shiraz but we were curious how a more upscale version would taste.

Winemaker John Casella hand selects parcels for this reserve wine, combining the warm climate vineyards that bring out the sweetness in shiraz with the cooler climate vineyards which enhance the wine’s spice.

This is a rich, round wine that pours inky dark and displays ripe berry aromas with spice fragrance. The year of French oak aging gives it full body with finely tuned tannins. This is definitely a step up from the entry level shiraz.

Sherry: “Bold, black cherry and licorice with a light touch of chocolate.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Cherry, blackberry and pepper finishes with a chocolate kiss.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $9.

Coming next week: Tormaresca Neprica

Tormaresca Neprica 2006

From the heel of Italy comes this interesting wine that takes its name from the first two or three letters of its grape sources — negroamara, primitivo and cabernet sauvignon.

The Puglia region is Italy’s No. 1 wine-producing region, accounting for 17 percent of the country’s wine production. But because its wines are primarily used in blends for wines in the north, it has little recognition.

This wine from the Antinori family could change that. Negroamaro is a regional grape whose name means “black and bitter.” Not terribly inviting until you blend it with two other red stalwarts and produce an earthy, warm taste of southern Italy. The aroma of spice rolls out of the glass and follows through in the taste. Serve with a tomato pasta dish or grilled meats and enjoy.

Sherry: “Clove, blackberry and cassis with a hint of chocolate.” 3-1/2 stars

Chris: “Black cherry laced with hints of spice and earth.” 3-1/2 stars

Available locally for about $10.

Coming next week: Columbia Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red and White

Columbia Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red and White

This week we’re featuring two of the three new varieties (there’s also a rose`) of this economical Columbia Crest line that has always been on our list of house wines.

Both of these come from some of the oldest vineyards in Columbia Valley in Washington, the first of which were planted 30 years ago. The red is a blend of syrah, sangiovese and cabernet while the white features chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon.

One would be hard-pressed to find better wines for the price. The red features aromas of blackberry and raspberry fruit with a medium body and nicely tamed tannins. The white has floral and pear aromas with a fresh, juicy taste.

Pick up a pair for your next party and you’ll leave red and white drinkers satisfied.

Red

Sherry: “Chocolate black cherry with a hint of licorice and mint.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Berry and toast with a licorice finish.” (3 stars)

White

Sherry: “Pear, lemon and lime with a light mineral finish.” (2.5 stars)

Chris: “Ripe pear and pineapple with a citrus blend.” (3 stars)

Both available locally for about $6.

Coming next week: Trimbach Pinot Blanc

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2005

The Trimbach family is in its 12th generation of winemakers who started in 1626 and remains a prominent force in the Alsace region in northeast France.

The Alsace, nestled between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River and Germany to the east, is predominantly known for its white wines, which is more than 90 percent of its production.

Pinot blanc grapes are second in acreage behind riesling and are related to pinot gris, creating acidic wines with low aroma.

We tried this one twice after the first bottle tasted like flat lemonade, an indication the wine had gone off. Our second try was much more pleasurable with this dry, citrus-like wine.

Sherry: “Pineapple, lemon and lime with a light touch of mineral.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Peach and pear with lemon and minerals.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $12.

Coming next week: Georges Deboeuf Pinot Noir Reserve   

Georges Duboeuf  Pinot Noir Reserve 2005

Georges Duboeuf is the French wine spelled very strangely and even harder to pronounce. Try Georgia with a soft ‘g’ and Dew Buff and you’re close.

Duboeuf sells more than 30 million bottles a year and is the classic negociant – the wine merchant who purchases from smaller growers and winemakers and sells the product under his own name. The family is quite prominent in the Beaujolais region and Georges is still active in the business.

Don’t let the loud, psychedelic bottle that looks like an Easter egg plastic wrap fool you. Inside is a soft, subtle, silky pinot that belies its price with earthy tones and bright cherry flavor. We were pleasantly surprised.

Sherry: “Bright, fruity cherry with undertones of anise.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Spicy cherry with a soft finish.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Martin Codax Alborino

Martin Codax Albarino 2006

This white wine comes from the Rias Baixas region in northwestern Spain near Portugal and the Basque country. It is named after a 13th century troubadour who wrote poetry and songs about the Spanish countryside.

Albarino grapes fare well in the region, which is cool, windy and rainy – not ideal vineyard conditions.

This wine falls somewhere in between pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc. It has a floral and orchard fruit aroma but is surprisingly tart and dry. There’s a hint of apple and pear flavor, but the wine is overwhelmingly citrus and slightly bitter.

Albarino is not a wine that stands up to aging, so move this to the front of your summertime selections.

Sherry: “Tart, dry lime and grapefruit flavor.” (2.5 stars)

Chris: “Pear and citrus with a crisp, tart finish.” (2.5 stars)

Available locally for about $11.

Coming next week: Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon

Avalon California Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

One can expect to pay close to $20 to bring home a Napa Valley cabernet, which command premium prices.

But the folks at Purple Wine Co. – who also make Mark West and Rock Rabbit wines – have bucked that trend to create a quality cab for less than half that price.

How do they do it? In order to be labeled Napa Valley, the cabernet must contain 85 percent fruit from Napa, of which 75 percent must be cabernet sauvignon. This vintage includes fruit from other regions with a blend of syrah, merlot and tempranillo.

The percentages add up to meet the labeling requirements and the sum is a winning blend, delivering a simple but hearty wine with berry and toast aromas and medium tannins.

Sherry: “Peppery clove and black cherry flavor.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Cherry, spice and a whiff of smoke.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $10.

Coming next week: Rosemount Traminer Riesling

Rosemount Traminer Riesling 2006

Traminer is an ancient grape variety that was hardly inspiring until it mutated a few centuries ago to become the aromatic, spicy grape we know today and sanctioned in 1973 as gewürztraminer.

Australian winemaker Rosemount has created blend with gewürztraminer and riesling, two of our favorite white wines. The tropical fruit flavors of gewürztraminer with the acidity of the riesling does make for an attractive combination in this straw-colored wine.

This wine was rated 89 by Wine Spectator but our preference is for the Old World style of whites, which are a little less dry and display more fruit. Still, it’s another example of Australia offering much more than just shiraz.

Sherry: “Lightly spiced pear.” (2.5 stars)

Chris: “Floral aromas with pear and citrus.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $7.

Coming next week: Campus Oaks Old Vine Zinfandel

Campus Oaks Old Vine Zinfandel 2006

Zinfandel is not indigenous to America but it has been planted in California long enough it is now considered an American grape variety.

Because of its vigor and resistance to disease, some of the zinfandel vineyards are 75 to 100 years old. When grape vines hit 40 years old, production slows down but the fruit is considered to have better flavor and intensity.

Campus Oaks is made by the Gnekow (pronounced “nee-ko”) Family Winery and comes from hand-selected grapes from vines more than 80 years old. It displays the usual red berry flavors with the spicy zinfandel zing on the tongue; a very nice zinfandel for the price.

Sherry: “Soft cherry flavor with a stronger clove and licorice finish.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Raspberry and cherry with the right amount of heat on the tongue.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $10.

Coming next week: Botham Vineyards Vin 10

Botham Vineyards Vin 10

Botham Vineyards is a picturesque Wisconsin winery near Barneveld where Peter Botham produces regionally distinctive wines on his family farm.
Vin 10 is a semi-dry white wine which represents the 10th addition to the Botham portfolio. It’s made from Geisenheim grapes, a hybrid of riesling and chancellor grapes which is hardy enough to withstand Wisconsin winters.
This wine has a floral and grassy aroma with citrus and stone fruit flavors. It has the herbal elements of sauvignon blanc with the fruit of a riesling.
Botham said initial reaction to this wine has been positive and we can see why. While it’s not a perfect 10 (which would be a 5 on our scale), we certainly proclaim Vin 10 a winner.
Sherry: “Apple, pear and honey with a light touch of floral essence.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Apple and pear with a touch of lemon.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Bracco Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Bracco Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005

Say “Mon-teh-pool-CHAH-no dah-BROOT-so” and you’ve found one of our favorite recent Italian wine discoveries.
This simple but earthy red is made with Montepulciano grapes in the Abruzzo region of central Italy. It is hand-selected by actress Lorraine Bracco, known to many as Dr. Jennifer Melfi from “The Sopranos.”
Bracco Wines started in 2005 when Bracco traveled to Italy to handpick eight wines. Bracco told The Brooklyn Paper that her Montepulcianio is a staple, red table wine meant to be consumed right away. “I love it,” Bracco said.
We agree. There’s nothing complicated about this wine, which has a strong, leathery bouquet, light cherry flavor and a very soft finish. Savor a mouthful and let the name roll off your tongue.
Sherry: “Wonderful dry, smoky, earthy cherry flavor.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Leather and earth, cherry flavor and a red licorice finish. (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $11.
Coming next week: Yvon Mau Colombard-Chardonnay

Yvon Mau Colombard Chardonnay 2006

Colombard is the Rodney Dangerfield of white wine grapes, rarely getting any respect but serving as the backbone of most California jug wine, thanks to its high acidity.
This 50/50 blend comes from France, where Colombard is used mainly for distilling into cognac in the Gascony region. The chardonnay comes from Languedoc. It is part of Mau’s Vin de Pays line, which was launched to dispell the notion that French wines are stuffy and complicated.
This wine is certainly not complicated, but was a pleasant surprise, with light refreshing flavors of citrus, apple and tropical fruits. Serve it before dinner, with a cheese tray or take on a picnic.
Sherry: “Dry and tart with citrus lime and pineapple flavors.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Tart pineapple, pear and a dash of vanilla.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $7.
Coming next week: Robert Mondavi Vinetta

Robert Mondavi Vinetta 2005

One of the last new ventures of the legendary American wine pioneer Robert Mondavi was Vinetta, a red wine blend that debuted last year.

This is perhaps a fitting tribute to Mondavi, who died earlier this year at the age of 94. It was inspired by Mondavi’s travels to France in the 1960s and is a blend of Bordeaux grape varieties cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc.

The bouquet of this wine hints of raisins and spice and in the mouth it has medium body with berry flavors. Simple yet pleasant, with wide appeal, this is what one would expect from a Bordeaux-inspired blend.

Sherry: “Soft, fruity blackberry and cherry taste with a light clove and licorice finish.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Cherry and licorice with just a bit of vanilla finish.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Von Stiehl Oktoberfest

Von Stiehl Winery Oktoberfest 2007

Answers.com defines Oktoberfest as: An autumn festival that usually emphasizes merrymaking and the consumption of beer.
While beer may dominate the festival, don’t forget about the wine, especially this one that was created for Von Stiehl Winery’s annual wine festival in Algoma, Wis.
This semi-sweet white wine is a blend of vignoles, gewürztraminer and riesling grapes. Vignoles, also known as ravat, develops very high sugar content with high acidity – excellent for sweet wines.
Von Stiehl says this is the winemaker’s second best-selling wine. It’s easy to taste why. Fragrant and fruity, the wine is nicely balanced with the spiciness of the gewürztraminer and the pear flavors from the riesling.
Sherry: “Bouquet of honey and melon with tastes of lightly spiced honey and undertones of apple and pear.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “A melon nose with spicy pear and apple flavors.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $7.
Coming next week: Polka Dot Riesling

Polka Dot Riesling 2007

You’re swept up in Oktoberfest spirit and decide to purchase a German wine to keep that geist going.
You find the German wine shelves and your spirit deflates faster than you can pronounce trockenbeerenauslese or gutsabfullung, just two words on the labels that you find quite confusing.
While understanding German wine labels can be perplexing, Polka Dot is German wine that looks like a big easy button in a traditional Kabinett blue bottle.  Produced in the Pfalz region and imported by wine giant Gallo, Polka Dot is a simple, casual wine that features the orchard fruit trademark flavors of riesling balanced with crisp acidity.
Sherry: “Light-bodied apricot and honey flavor, with slightly tart elements of citrus fruit.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Pear and peach flavors with a squirt of citrus finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.50.
Coming next week: La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2006

We’ve often stated that neither of us are big chardonnay fans – we feel there are simply better white wine alternatives.  But we do enjoy the rich, buttery chardonnays that seem to be out of favor with today’s market trends.
Although a bit pricy, La Crema delivers this and more.
Buttery or creamy wine comes from malolactic fermentation – the process of converting malic acid to lactic acid. It’s a tricky proposition -- too much fermentation and you can have nuances of sauerkraut.
There’s nothing sour about this wine, which has a fragrant bouquet of melon and honey and flavors of pear, pineapple wrapped in a toasted butterscotch finish.
This is the best chardonnay we’ve sampled so far.
Sherry: “A heavenly buttery taste with butterscotch and light pineapple.” (4 stars)
Chris: “Pear, vanilla and butterscotch with a richness that lingers on the tongue.” (4 stars)
Available locally for about $17.
Coming next week: Rip Snorter Shiraz-Cabernet

Yarraman Rip Snorter 2005

Yarraman is an aboriginal word meaning “wild horse” and the untamed theme carries through to the Australian producer’s wines, which features names like Hell Raiser, Barn Buster and Hay Burner.
Rip Snorter is Australian slang for something that is excellent. While we may not go that far, this red blend of shiraz (80 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (20 percent) offers some intense depth and flavors.
Yarraman ferments these wines separately before blending, 14 months for the shiraz in American oak and a year for the cabernet in French oak. The result is deep, ruby red wine with berry flavors, a tobacco-like bouquet and lingering finish.
Sherry: “Black cherry and clove flavor with subtle elements of chocolate and vanilla.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Spicy cherry and a wisp of smoke with a nibble of chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.

Five Rivers Pinot Grigio 2006

Pinot grigio, also known as pinot gris, is a white wine grape that can range from very sweet to crisp and dry. Genetic testing shows it to be a mutation from pinot noir and it’s usually a very food-friendly wine.
While the French versions are rich and florally, this California version is patterned more like an Italian wine, focusing on fresh fruit, citrus flavors and a mineral finish.
The winemaker added 5 percent riesling grapes for a little more aroma and fermented the wine in stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit taste. The wine opens with a fragrant floral bouquet, shows plenty of citrus influence and leans toward the dry side.
Sherry: “Lemon, lime and pineapple with a subtle vanilla finish.” (2.5 stars)
Chris: “Zesty citrus with a hint of grass and mineral.” (2.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: McManis Petite Sirah

McManis Petite Sirah 2006

It’s the change of seasons and dining fare turns to stews, pot roasts and other fall favorites.
Such hearty fare deserves a hearty wine and there’s none huskier than petite sirah. From the moment the deep purple wine pours in the glass, you know this is not grape wine light.
This once obscure variety is finding great favor in California, where more than 60 wineries grow more than 6,000 acres. McManis fermented this vintage in stainless steel and aged it for four months in French oak.
This wine opens with a hint of smoke and dark berries and finishes with a bit of coffee and spice. Not as much depth as other petites we’ve sampled, but still enjoyable.
Sherry: “Dark cherry and blackberry with clove and a light licorice finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Blackberry, blueberry with a long finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: Tin Roof Merlot  

Tin Roof Merlot 2005

Never underestimate the public’s perception that new and improved is always better, even in the wine industry.
A flurry of new wines – many with old faces behind the labels – has hit the shelves over the past few years. Tin Roof is a line launched by White Rocket Wine Co., which was formed two years ago by wine icon Jess Jackson of Kendall-Jackson fame. Called “fun wines,” they are targeted at younger wine consumers.
We veterans enjoy wine for the experience, which tells us that finding a quality merlot for under $10 is a challenge. Challenge met. Medium dry with tamed tannins and the right balance between dark fruit and spice, you can enjoy this wine and the savings. 
Sherry: “Black cherry and clove with a touch of cocoa.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Black cherry, plum and chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.

Foppiano Lot 96

This red wine from Foppiano Vineyards is a tribute to the Sonoma County, Calif., family legacy.
The first connection is the name, which comes the year 1896 when Giovanni Foppiano started the winery. The second connection is the wine itself, a blend of seven different grapes, reminiscent of the field blends that went into the jug wine that Foppiano and other winemakers made in the early years.
What could a slurry is actually a pleasant, simple wine with a berry and slightly earthy aroma, berry flavors and a hint of roughness on the edge that is not unpleasant but almost expected knowing the blend.
Sherry: “A strong clove flavor with elements of cherry and blackberry.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Spicy cherry and peppermint with a bit of cocoa on the finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Castillo Real

Castillo Real 2006

This is a new Spanish red wine that comes from a region where ancient winemaking tradition dates back to the Roman times.
The Bullas region is part of the Murcia province in southeastern Spain, where the landscape is desert-like with rocky soils and a climate with hot days and cool nights. Castillo Real is made with mainly monastrell grapes (90 percent), also known as mourvedre in France.
There is an earthy quality in this wine, a reflection of its environment. It’s not as dense as other mourvedres we’ve sampled, perhaps due to the winemakers choice to ferment it in stainless steel and to eschew oak aging. The tannins are smooth and the fruit flavors are framed in pleasant spice.
Sherry: “Cherry and mint, with just the right amount of clove finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and licorice cloaked with dust.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Columbia Winery Gewurztraminer

Columbia Gewurztraminer 2006

Choosing a wine to accompany turkey, stuffing cranberries and all the fixings isn’t nearly as hard as preparing the Thanksgiving feast.
There are so many flavors at the typical Thanksgiving table that the best advice is to stay away from the big reds like zinfandel and stick with the sweeter, fruit forward wines. These wines won’t overwhelm the food – especially turkey – and will likely be more palatable to the special occasion wine drinkers. If you feel you must serve a red, select a beaujolais or a pinot. Keep the cabernet for Christmas.
This gewürztraminer from Columbia in Washington State is medium dry, with floral aroma and lip-smacking fruit flavors balanced with zesty acidity. It also won’t break the bank.
Sherry: “Spicy honey and pear with an almond finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Peach and pear dipped in honey.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.

Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Zinfandel 2005

One of the most annoying and yet memorable songs of the 1980s was “Hot hot hot” by Buster Poindexter.
That’s what comes to mind with this wine from Rancho Zabaco, known for its big, bold, in-your-face reds. There’s plenty to enjoy about this wine, which starts with a mouth-watering berry bouquet. It’s a delicious blend of brambleberry flavors and it finishes with the classic zinfandel spicy finish.
Perhaps this wine was made to satisfy fans of another ‘80s song, “Some Like it Hot” by Power Station. Our complaint is the heat – created by 15 percent alcohol. If that were cranked down a notch or two, this would be a superb wine. It’s very good, nonetheless.
Sherry: “Wonderfully fragrant blackberry bouquet with blackberry and licorice flavor.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Blackberry and blueberry with a clove-like finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $14.
Coming next week: Sebeka Sauvignon Blanc

Sebeka Sauvignon Blanc 2007

New Zealand dominates the import market for sauvignon blanc, but other countries are getting into the act.

Sebeka, a member of the vast Gallo family, comes from South Africa. This wine is grown in the Western Cape on vineyards cooled by the Antarctica ocean currents and the winds from the Indian Ocean. Sebeka (pronounced Se-BEEK-ah) is named after a South American cheetah, which is featured on the label.

The grapes are slowly fermented in stainless steel with no oak influence, giving the wine a crisp, acidic quality and allowing the citrus and tropical fruit flavors to dominate. There are pleasant underlying mineral notes that round out this value wine.

Sherry: “Light-bodied lemon and lime with a nutty, almond finish.” (3 stars)

Chris: “Lemon and faint melon with a palate-cleansing tartness.” (3 stars)

Available locally for about $7.

Coming next week:  Horse Heaven Cabernet Sauvignon

Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Columbia Crest winery in 1978 planted 2,000 acres of vines in Horse Heaven Hills, five years before the Washington state winery’s first production. Twenty-seven years later the government agreed to the winery’s petition to designate Horse Heaven Hills as an American Viticulture Area (AVA).

H3, as the wine is known, debuted nationally this year and has drawn quick acclaim. The winemaker blends grapes from vineyards up to 14,000 feet above sea level, producing an earthy red with forward berry flavors and gentle tannins from its barrel aging. This is a quality cabernet with outstanding value; a perfect match for a Christmas rib roast.

Sherry: “Smooth cherry and raspberry with cinnamon, clove and a light chocolate finish.” (3.5 stars)

Chris: “Raspberry and spice with a pleasant earth-like quality and a dusting of cocoa.” (3.5 stars)

Available locally for about $12.

Coming next week: Chateau Ste. Michelle Orphelin

Chateau Ste. Michelle Orphelin 2005

‘Tis the season for thinking about the less fortunate, which in the wine world would be the grapes usually no one thinks of.
This red wine from the Columbia Valley in Washington is named after the French word for orphan, which certainly applies to most of the nine varieties of grapes in this Rhone-style blend. The main body is syrah, but there also are several orphan varieties, including mourvedre, cinsault, grenache, petit verdot and touriga – grapes seldom featured by themselves.
The combination of these grapes creates a happy blended family, with bright red berry flavors and a peppery spice. The tannins are nicely tamed with 16 months of oak aging.
Sherry: “Bright, fruity black cherry, cassis, pepper and spice.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and peppermint framed in earth and spice.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: Korbel Chardonnay California Champagne

Korbel Chardonnay Champagne

A lot of economic bubbles burst in 2008 so perhaps it’s appropriate or ironic that champagne sales fell flat as well.
Industry statistics show champagne sales were down nearly 5 percent through October, the first fall in the market since 2000 and coming after last year’s record sales.
But here’s something to celebrate. The week between Christmas and New Year’s is by the far the busiest for champagne sales, so look it’s a great time to look for bargains. This California champagne – made in the traditional French method – goes well with party food and delivers a delightful dry mouthful of sparkling fruit.
Sherry: “Dry and slightly tart with lime, minerals and spice, with a hint of almond finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Floral bouquet with apple, spice and minerals.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: J. Lohr Wildflower

2007

Paul Jaboulet Aine Cotes du Rhone Parallele 45 2005

Just the name of this French red wine is a mouthful, but certainly not one to spit out.
Paul Jaboulet was the elder (aine) twin son of Antoine Jaboulet who founded the Rhone winery in 1834. It remains in the hands of numerous Jaboulet descendents today. The rest of the wine’s name refers to the 45th North parallel, which is only two kilometers away from the cellars.
Jaboulet is a consistent winery, enhanced by excellent vintages, which it claims 2005 to be. Made from a blend of grenache and syrah grapes, the wine has plenty of fruit for a fresh taste but enough structure to bring about a spicy finish.
 This is an affordable, classic French red done well, bordering four stars in our book.
Sherry: “A delightful, peppery, strawberry and cherry flavor.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Tantalizing aromas and red fruit taste set in a dash of spice.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Red Diamond Merlot   

Red Diamond Merlot 2003

Sales of the much-maligned merlot are recovering after the wine was bashed in the infamous scene from the 2004 movie “Sideways.”
Even though sales slid in 2005 by 0.7 percent, according to A.C. Nielsen, merlot still had an 11.7 market share that year, up from 3.5 percent 10 years earlier.
This wine from Washington is a good example of why merlot is so popular. The wine is soft, fruity and much more approachable for people making the leap from white to red.
Red Diamond is a new label that was launched from popular restaurant sales. This is a fine merlot for under $10, with bright red fruits and a lush finish that has plenty of appeal for the masses.
Sherry: “Smooth, leathery and black currant.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Black cherry with a touch of cocoa.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week:  Charama Douro

Charamba Douro 2003
Portugal is best-known for its port, but the same grapes that provide the backbone for this fortified drink also make some delicious wines.
This wine from producer Quinta da Aveleda comes from the Douro region, which is where we get port. The grape varieties are tinta roriz, tinta barroca, touriga franca and touriga nacional. Tinta roriz is better known as tempranillo, the grape used in some fine Spanish wines.
This is a medium-dry wine, favorably comparable to some Rhone reds. The fruit flavors are balanced nicely with a hint of earthiness and smoke. Allow this wine to breath for a few minutes before serving. Because of its similarities to port, this wine could also age for several years for additional finishing.  
Sherry: “Fruity cranberry, strawberry and licorice.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Tangy cranberry and black licorice set in a background of smoky oak.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week:  Estancia Pinot Grigio

Estancia Pinot Grigio 2005

While we enjoy red and white wines year-round, white wines are perhaps enjoyed more in the summer as a refreshing drink on a hot day.
That’s particularly the reason why it’s fun to open a white in winter and capture a little sunshine in your glass.
While many red wines display berry flavors, pinot grigio, also known as pinot gris, tend towards the orchard fruits, such as apple, pear or even melon. Those flavors are found in this offering from California’s Estancia, with a very light color that matches the pale sunshine this time of year.
Not as steely and crisp as some pinot grigios, this wine has a slight blend of chardonnay and two months of light oak that provides a hint of nutty finish.
Sherry: “Pear and green apple, with an almond finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Green apple and pear aromas, with a pear and peach taste.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel

(For Feb. 4)

Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel 2004

When it comes to toughness, zinfandel is the hard-nosed middle linebacker in the field of wine grapes. Originally introduced to the United States in 1820, zinfandel is vigorous in growth and resistant to vine disease.
That toughness means the vines can survive 75 to 100 years or more, prompting the “old vine” labels. Bogle’s California zin vines are 40 to 80 years old. Zin aficionados believe the smaller yields from the old vines produces grapes that ripen more evenly.
It’s hard to argue with Bogle’s results. The hot or astringent-like bite in some zinfandels is absent in this wine, which is rich with intense berry flavors. We can’t recall a zin as soft and smooth. Hot zin fans might be disappointed, but we were pleasantly surprised.
Sherry: “Pleasantly fruity, with plum and cassis and a touch of chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Blueberry and blackberry, without the pepper burst of some zinfandels.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2001
It’s our Valentine’s Day tradition to select a wine from Italy, where passion for fine wine is year-round.
Chianti is a region of Italy and the specification Classico refers to an area of the Chianti region, where very specific regulations must be followed for the wine, including what grapes can be used (must be at least 80 percent sangiovese) and what specific color, odor and flavor the wine must meet.
The rules may be picky, but it assures consumers that no matter who the producer is, a Chianti Classico is not going to be a dreadful wine served from a whicker-basket bottle but rather a firm, elegant wine with cherry and toasted oak flavors.
While we’ve had better, this offering met our expectations of a decent Italian red.
Sherry: “Dry, spicy and peppery. Black cherry with a touch of licorice.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and licorice nicely balanced in oak.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $ 20.
Coming next week: Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay

Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2003

Columbia Crest in Washington State consistently delivers quality wines and its Two Vines series, which debuted in 2003, also offer outstanding value.
The 2003 season was marked with the warmest temperatures of the decade at Columbia Crest’s vineyards, which are east of the Cascade Mountains at up to 14,000 feet. The dry climate and irrigation result in a quality controlled growing process which is perfect for growing grapes.
This is a lighter, dry chardonnay with a lemon and citrus flavor and just a hint of oak, the result of 20 percent of the wine lots getting six months exposure to oak. Our white wine preferences are usually not chardonnay, but this is a pretty decent wine at a great price. 
Sherry: “Buttery pear and citrus with a light, butterscotch finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Pear and peach with a dollop of buttery-cream.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $6.
Coming next week: Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvedre

Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvedre 2003

The pinnacle of Australian wine is Grange, a legendary shiraz wine from Penfolds that commands triple digit dollars.
But you can still enjoy the wines from Australia’s premium winery and not break the bank, like this blend of shiraz and mourvedre.
Penfolds was started by an English doctor in the mid-1800s who believed in the medicinal value of wine. The family’s descendants followed the doctor’s advice and the winery came into its own after World War II when it began focusing on premium reds.
This is an inky dark wine that unfolds in aromas of raspberry, licorice and leather, followed by layers of red fruit with a shiraz bite that is tempered by the mourvedre. Decant unless serving with food. We suggest a fine roast.
Sherry: “Dry raspberry and cherry flavors.” (3 stars)
Chris: “An earthy blend of raspberry and licorice.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $13.
Coming next week: Alice White Lexia

Alice White Lexia 2005
Lexia is an Australian variety of muscat, which is known as Muscat of Alexandria in the United States. Muscat is an aromatic grape that is one of the oldest known varieties and it thrives in warm climates.
There’s no mistaking the intense, tropical and floral aroma of muscat. Aromas of apricot, mangos and even lilacs roll out of this bottle, which is a recent addition to the Alice White lineup.
This is definitely a sweet wine, but its nicely balanced with a crisp finish that leaves you smacking your lips. It’s also one of the best wines for under $5 that we’ve had in a while. This would be a great companion to spicy Asian food.
Sherry: “Sweet, with lightly spiced peach and apple.” (3 stars)
Chris: “A sweet blend of melon and peach.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $4.
Coming next week: Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Rodney Strong was a former Broadway dancer who helped put Sonoma County on the California wine map. Although Strong died last year and he no longer controlled the winery he established in 1961, he left behind a legacy in both spirit and in excellent wine.
Strong once said, “I will go into retirement when I fall into a fermenting tank of cabernet … and my departing hope is that they will say the wine has excellent body.”
Excellence emerges in this rich cabernet. A good wine should unfold in your mouth in fine layers, which is evident with every sip of this one. Starting with aromas of blackberries, this wine reveals cocoa and licorice flavors, enhanced by a very smooth feel.
This is a wine Strong would have enjoyed.
Sherry: “Blackberry and black cherry with overtones of licorice and coconut.” (4 stars)
Chris: “Blackberry and chocolate, with a dash of cinnamon.” (4 stars)
Available locally for about $16.
Coming next week: St. Francis Red

St. Francis Red 2003

The winery known as “The House of the Big Reds” has come out with a blended wine that red wine enthusiasts will heartily embrace.
Many wines are blends, which feature more than one variety of grapes. Even some with the name of the grape on the label will have some percentage of another grape variety. Blends allow winemakers to experiment and create, much like a chef adding different spices to food. This gives winemakers artistic expression, which each year’s harvest and grape quality changing the annual recipe.
St. Francis has come up with a winner. This is a blend of merlot, zinfandel, grenache and sangiovese that forms a rich, ripe, spicy wine.
Sherry: “Black cherry and chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Spicy plum with a whiff of earthiness.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc

Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Australia and New Zealand have turned the wine world upside down in the past 10 years with skyrocketing sales of the country’s signature wines -- shiraz in Australia and sauvignon blanc in New Zealand.
Rock Rabbit is a California winery attempting to emulate that success by making only two wines -- syrah (called shiraz in Australia) and sauvignon blanc, which is also known as fume blanc in California.
This wine taste much more like New Zealand than the New World. It’s crisp and clean with fresh citrus flavors balanced by a tart mineral finish. Rock Rabbit added a dash of gewürztraminer (9 percent) to give it a little extra zing. A plus is a price lower than most New Zealand sauvignons.
Sherry: “Citrus-like lemon and grapefruit, with tones of vanilla.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Peach, melon and zesty grapefruit.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: Herding Cats Merlot/Pinotage

Herding Cats Merlot/Pinotage 2005

South African wine sales declined slightly last year after 13 years of growth, but more labels are showing up on the shelves.
This blend is 80 percent merlot and 20 percent pinotage, the red wine grape that was created in 1925 in South Africa when pinot noir and cinsault (called hermitage in South Africa) were crossed. Pinotage was blasted by some early wine critics who called it “rusty nails” but thanks to quality improvements the variety is winning more supporters and is becoming the signature wine of South Africa.
The merlot clearly dominates this wine, which has no hint of rust. It is fermented without oak aging, leaving a fresh, fruity taste with soft tones of vanilla.
Sherry: “Fruity dark cherry, blackberry and vanilla.” (3 stars)
Chris: “A smooth blend of cherry with a hint of earthiness.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Airlie 7

Airlie 7 2005
It’s not the deadly sins but rather seven varieties of grapes that come together in this white wine from Airlie Winery in the Willamette Valley region of Oregon.
There are more than 600 varieties of grapes in the world, many of which you will never find in a commercial bottle of wine. The seven that come together in this bottle are Müller Thurgau, riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot blanc, chardonnay, pinot gris, and muscat ottonel.
It’s hard to find the distinguishing characteristics of all these grapes in this wine, but it’s a blend of citrus and stone fruits that works well as a stand-alone wine or served with food – but without the gluttony, of course.
Sherry: “Light citrus, with lemon, grapefruit and almond.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Lemony peach, pear and orange, with a bite of green apple.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: House Red

House Wine Red 2004

Usually the thought of ordering the house wine at a restaurant makes us shudder because you’re apt to get some indistinguishable swill served in a carafe. That’s not always true, but it’s much safer to order by the bottle from a reputable winery.
We were unsure what we’d get with House Wine, packaged with a stark, black and white label, perhaps a tribute to the no-name carafe. We were pleasantly surprised.
House Wine comes from K Vinters in Washington State. It’s a blend of cabernet sauvignon (70 percent), merlot (25 percent) and syrah (5 percent) grapes, which varies widely by vintage.
The result is a Bordeaux-style red, with an earthy and ripe berry nose. The flavor displays the berries, which are framed in toasted oak. Provide ample breathing time before serving.
Sherry: “Robust and dark, with cherry, vanilla and a hint of chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Raspberry and licorice with a hot finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Castle Rock Petite Sirah

Castle Rock Petite Sirah 2004

Petite sirah is a trendy California wine, with acreage in the state tripling in the past 10 years and the number of producers increasing from 67 in 2002 to 345 in 2006.
This means more selection on the shelves, which is welcome news for aficionados like us of this full-bodied, inky dark wine. Castle Rock, which makes all its wines on contract and purchases wholesale grapes, has entered the petite sirah market with a respectable offering.
A Lodi appellation, this offers rich, ripe berry flavors that linger in a long-lasting and pleasant finish. It lacks a bit of the earthiness compared to other petites, but is still a good value.
Sherry: “Cherry, blackberry and vanilla flavors.” (3 stars)
Chris: “A hint of coffee on the nose with lots of ripe cherry and blackberry.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Sebastiani Sonoma Chardonnay

Sebastiani Sonoma Chardonnay 2004

Sebastiani was started in 1904 by an Italian immigrant who purchased one of the oldest vineyards in northern California. It was first planted with grapes in 1825 by Franciscan monks. Today the third and fourth generation Sebastiani family members operate the winery.
Chardonnay is a delicate white grape easily influenced by the fermentation process. Sebastiani uses several Sonoma sub-appellations, some tank fermented and others barrel-fermented and put through malolactic fermentation, the process that adds the buttery or creamy finish to wine. The grapes are then blended before bottling to achieve the desired effect.
This is a pleasant, medium-bodied wine, with a pleasant apple and tropical fruit nose and slight cream finish.
Sherry: “Golden and buttery, with notes of mineral and lime.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Apple and pineapple flavors in a soft, buttery finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $11.
Coming next week: Castelmaure Col des Vents Corbieres  

Castelmaure Col des Vents Corbieres 2003

The discovery portion in the journey of wine tasting is made even more enjoyable when a pull of the cork confirms your hopes.
Such is the case of this obscure label from the Corbieres region of France. Col Des Vents refers to the cool night winds that sweep off the sea into the isolated village of Castelmaure, where the rocky soils challenge the winemaker.
This unoaked red wine is a blend of carignan, syrah and grenache grapes that displays powerful red fruit in dry tannins and oozes with French terroir, the French term for a wine’s sense of place.
These are indeed the discoveries that inspire us to continue our lifelong wine journey.
Sherry: “Dry and leathery, with flavors of strawberry and cherry.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Black cherry and blueberry framed in licorice.” (4 stars)
Available locally for $9.
Coming next week: Washington Hills Late Harvest Riesling

Washington Hills Late Harvest Riesling 2005

Vineyard tenders are no different than their other farmer cousins when it comes to gambling on the weather, which is the main variable that makes each vintage unique.
 Those who dabble with late harvest offerings risk losing fruit but gamble against additional sunlight to increase the sugar level of the grapes. Some even welcome a desirable fungus that hastens the sugar development.
The results can be some delicious, sweet wines that are perfect for dessert. Some dessert wines, such as a German Trockenbeerenauslese, can have as much as 25 percent sugar.
This offering from Washington’s Columbia Valley comes in much lower than that, with residual sugar of 5.4 percent. That’s just enough to highlight the concentrated stone fruit flavors.
Sherry: “A delightful blend of lightly spiced apple, peach and pear.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Ripe pear, peach and honey.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Gnarly Head Zinfandel

Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2005

Memorial Day weekend is the unofficial start of the summer barbecue season, so now’s the time to stock up on steaks, burgers and a good grilling wine.
Beef, ribs, pizza and even pasta would make fine companions for this rich and zesty zinfandel from California’s Lodi region. Named for twisted free-standing old vines that survive up to 80 years or more, this wine practically oozes with black and red berry flavors that finish with peppery spice.
Don’t mistake this for the pale imitation white zinfandel. This dark red wine packs plenty of power. Open it well before you light your grill to allow for ample breathing time.
Sherry: “Bursting with strawberry and plum with a touch of chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Leather and tobacco aromas with blackberry, raspberry and licorice flavors.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.50.
Coming next week: Conquista Malbec

Conquista Malbec 2005

The Mendoza region of Argentina, located in the foothill of the Andes Mountains, brings us this dark red wine from one of country’s most popular grape varieties.
Mendoza is the fifth-largest wine producing region in the world. Malbec, which was brought from France in the mid-19th century, thrives in this region of lots of sunshine (more than 300 days a year) and cool nights.
Malbec usually falls between merlot and cabernet sauvignon on the wine scale, with plenty of approachable fruit and a little softer on the tannic scale. Dark red fruits are evident in the nose of this wine, which carry over into the taste. This is a medium wine with not a lot of depth but still very enjoyable.
Sherry: “Cherry, strawberry and clove.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Strawberry and blueberry with a whisper of a chocolate finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Ca’ De’ Medici Lambrusco

Ca’ De’ Medici Lambrusco

It may be hard to take the wine that has been called the Coca-Cola of Italy seriously, but there’s more to lambrusco than the “Riunite on ice, that’s nice” we remember from the 1970s.
Lambrusco is a family of grapes that comes from ancient Roman wild vines. Ca’ De’ Medici follows traditional methods to put its wine through two fermentations, resulting in a charming wine with a natural sparkle.
Unlike some sweeter export versions, this offering is not sweet fizz. It’s slightly dry with a light body that displays a dark red to slightly purple color in the glass. Lower in alcohol (7.5 percent) and high in acid, this wine would make an excellent pairing with spicy foods. Serve well-chilled.
Sherry: “Concord grape and spicy blackberry flavors.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Concord grape nose with a grape and strawberry flavor.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $7. 
Coming next week: Trapiche Broquel Bonarda

Broquel Bonarda 2004

Bonarda is a grape more familiar in Italy but is also widely planted in Argentina, where this wine is produced. It was brought to South America by Italian immigrants in the 19th century.
Broquel is a brand produced by Trapiche, which has more than 100 years of wine-making experience and was launched as part of a company reorganization.
We heartily endorse that plan if it results in wines like this. This is a big and bold wine which pours very dark and displays plenty of fruit and spice in a nicely balanced structure. This would be an excellent companion to pasta or grilled meats. We recommend giving this wine time to breathe or giving it plenty of swirls in your glass to fully display the flavors.
Sherry: “Very dry with cherry, licorice and clove.” (4 stars)
Chris: “Prominent notes of cherry and spice with a slightly smoky finish.” (4 stars)
Available locally for about $11.
Coming next week: Evolution

Evolution

Most wines are a single grape variety or a blend of three or four. Rarely are there more, because the challenge of keeping the wine consistent is magnified every time another variety is added.
But nine is the lucky number for Evolution from Sokol Blosser in Oregon, a white medley launched in 1998, with a label that carries no vintage information. The grapes are, in no particular order, white riesling, pinot gris, Muller-Thurgau, semillon, gewürztraminer, muscat, pinot blanc, sylvaner and chardonnay.
The sum of all of these parts is a crisp, slightly-dry, aromatic wine with lots of tropical fruit and stone fruit flavors. Winemaker Russ Rosner said it’s the hardest wine he’s ever made, comparing it to trying to mix nine different colors of paint and creating a rainbow instead of a muddy brown.
We enjoy wine diversity too.
Sherry: “Grapefruit and lime, with a pear finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Fragrant pear and lemon, with a touch of cream.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $14.
Coming next week: Heritage des Caves des Popes Cotes du Rhone (white)

Heritage des Caves des Papes Blanc 2003

Caves des Papes (The Cellars of the Popes) hails from the Cotes du Rhone (pronounced coat do roan) region of France and the community of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which was the summer home of the popes from 1309 to 1378.
Winemaking in this region, with its clay and limestone Rhone river soils and Mediterranean climate, dates more than 2,000 years.
Most Cotes du Rhone imports are reds, so consider this white a rarity. It’s a blend of four classic -- but somewhat obscure to us -- Rhone varieties; white grenache, clairette, bourboulenc, roussanne and viognier.
This is a tart, slightly-dry wine, with a floral aroma and a slightly chalky and mineral finish. It may be showing its age, as most of the grapes in the wine are best consumed young.
Sherry: “Lime, grapefruit and an almond finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Lemon and lime with a touch of peach and a nutty aftertaste.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Starling Castle Riesling

Starling Castle Riesling 2006

Germans make some of the finest white wines, but their incredibly complicated wine labels (can you say Trockenbeerenauslese) can be very confusing and intimidating to Americans.
Starling Castle is a German wine that has the more familiar producer and grape label we’re accustomed with, displayed in an attractive bottle. But it’s what inside that counts, of course, and this Mosel River Valley riesling does not disappoint.
Lush and fruity, the wine has a pear and floral aroma, stone fruit and melon flavors and a pleasant slightly tart finish with a hint of minerality. Pack this one for a summer picnic and enjoy.
Sherry: “Refreshing blend of lightly-spiced pear, apple and apricot.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “A honeyed-blend of pear and peach with a crisp finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Layer Cake Shiraz

Layer Cake Shiraz 2005

Winemaker Jayson Woodbridge’s grandfather said “the layers of soil in which a well-made wine lives are like a layer cake, providing rich and spicy flavors of fruit, mocha and chocolate … always rich.”
This new Australian wine, part of the Pure Love Wines, pays tribute to that philosophy. It comes from the Barossa region, where harsh and extreme conditions challenge the grapes, resulting in low yields but intensely flavored fruit. It is from this region that Penfold’s Grange sells for upwards of $500 a bottle.
You don’t have to spend that much to get a quality shiraz. This is a dark, inky wine that unfolds in your mouth with dark fruit flavors and cocoa with a touch of spicy heat. Yes, it would go well with a dark chocolate cake.
Sherry: “Peppery, black cherry with tones of chocolate and coffee.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and black currant with luscious chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: Ambiente Tempranillo

Ambiente 2003 Tempranillo

Tempranillo is called the noble grape of Spain for its full-bodied red wines and is grown extensively there.
The grape also has found a home in Argentina, the world’s fifth-largest wine producer, where the influence of Spain extended from the language to the vineyards.
Ambiente hails from the Mendoza region of Argentina, which is home to 80 percent of the country’s wine production. It is made by Fecovita, a federation of 32 cooperatives and wineries in which about 5,000 winemakers are members.
We’ve found Spanish tempranillo to our liking and this New World version expresses itself well. It opens with plum and black cherry aromas with a whiff of earthiness. Red fruit flavors are evident and the wine finishes with a bit of warmth on the tongue.
Sherry: “Dry, smoky and leathery black cherry.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and berry fruit layered with wisps of smoke.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: White Knight Viognier

The White Knight Viognier 2005

Concannon Assemblage Red 2004

California winemaker Concannon has assembled four different wine grapes to produce this robust, red wine.
Concannon Vineyard dates to 1883 when Irish immigrant James Concannon planted grapes in the rocky soil in the San Francisco Bay area. This same soil produced the first petite sirah wines in 1961.
Concannon’s Irish ancestors turned to France for this Bordeaux-inspired wine with a blend of cabernet sauvignon (82 percent), merlot, petite sirah and petite verdot. The result is an elegant, full-bodied wine layered with fruits and spice and just enough oak to soften the finish. We declare this assemblage a winner.
Sherry: “Coconut bouquet, dry black cherry flavor with accents of coconut, cinnamon, clove and licorice.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Wisps of smoke and earth in the nose, with a spicy cherry body and a dash of chocolate finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $11.
Coming next week: Rosenblum Syrah Vintner’s Cuvee

(For Aug 5)

Rosenblum Cellars Vintners Cuvee Syrah 2004

One general but confusing rule of thumb in the world of wine is that grapes usually go by several different names. What’s pinot gris in France is pinot grigio in Italy. A chenin blanc in California is steen in South America.
So it is with syrah, the backbone of most French Rhone wines, which has risen to fame as shiraz in Australia.
This syrah comes from California, where the acreage has exploded from less than 100 in 1984 to more than 18,000 acres in 2005.
The cuvee designation means it has grapes blended from various regions. It’s a blend that works well. With an alcohol content of 15.3 percent, this is a full-bodied, in-your-face wine that displays plenty of fruit but still manages some depth and character. An excellent wine for the price.
Sherry: “Peppery black cherry with a licorice finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and plum layered with smoke and earth.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Kim Crawford Wines started with a conversation over a glass of wine and the desire of Kim and Erica Crawford to find a chardonnay that didn’t include heavy oak.
The New Zealand winery was virtual for the first three years as grapes were sourced and the wine was contracted. With demand growing, the Crawfords built a tasting room and winery, which opened in 2000 in Marlborough.
Sauvignon blanc is New Zealand’s signature wine, consisting of 39 percent of the country’s vines. The wine is crisp and clean, with plenty of citrus fruit.
This was certainly the tartest sauvignon we’ve sampled, perhaps a bit much for our tastes. It also had an aggressive cat litter-box odor (not unusual with sauvignon blanc) when first opened, which softened when swirled in the glass.
To each their own; the wine gained a 40 ranking on Wine Spectator’s top 100 wines of 2006.
Sherry: “Pucker up! Dry, tart lime and grapefruit with a mineral finish.” (2.5 stars)
Chris: “Citrus, gooseberry and stone.” (2.5 stars)
Available locally for about $13.
Coming next week: Kendall-Jackson Meritage

Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Meritage 2003

Most American wines are labeled after the grape variety that makes up at least 75 percent of the wine. That’s not how the traditional French Bordeaux varieties are named.
So in 1988 a group of American winemakers formed The Meritage Association – combining the words merit and heritage – to distinguish their wines from the generic red table wine designation.
Meritage – which rhymes with heritage – is a blend of two or more traditional Bordeaux varieties. Kendall-Jackson uses 49 percent cabernet sauvignon, 47 percent merlot and 4 percent cabernet franc.
This was KJ’s first Vintner’s Reserve Meritage release, with 2004 coming out earlier this year. This wine has delightful texture, with bright black cherry flavors and a medium finish.
Sherry: “Fruity cherry with a nutty finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Smooth black cherry and tones of chocolate.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: Trapiche Torrontes

 Trapiche Torrontes 2006

Argentina has gained international reputation for its unique red wine grape malbec. But Argentina also can boast of a unique white wine grape as well – torrontes.
This wine comes from the Mendoza region in the Andes foothills, where the rocky soil and low moisture creates an excellent vineyard environment.
DNA research shows that torrontes came from the eastern Mediterranean, most likely brought to the New World by a Spanish settler. The wine has floral and perfume aromas similar to muscat, but it’s not as sweet. On the white wine scale, we’d put this wine somewhere after riesling and gewürztraminer and similar in body to a viognier; a surprising blend of citrus fruits with plenty of finish.
Sherry: “Fragrant, floral bouquet with a tart, citrus flavor.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Very aromatic with zesty lemon and melon flavors.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $6.
Coming next week: Antinori Santa Cristina Sangiovese

Antinori Santa Cristina 2005

The Italians have a very rigid wine classification system that regulates grape varieties that can be used in specific regions, but in the past 20 years the system was relaxed to allow the use of more blends and to venture into more regions.
This resulted in the “super Tuscans,” wines from Tuscany that still use long-produced varietals like sangiovese but with a blend of an international grape like merlot. That’s the case with this wine from Antinori, which actually started in 1946 as a Chianti Classico.
This is a good example of why we enjoy Italian wines. It’s both fruity and soft, but has enough structure and character that lingers on the palate. This opens up better with food and was an excellent companion to our meal of summer squash, zucchini and pasta.
 Sherry: “An earthy nose, with flavors of cherry and black currant.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Notes of musk and leather with bright berry flavors.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: Banrock Station Merlot

Banrock Station Merlot 2005

Walk into your favorite wine merchant and immediately your eye goes to the top shelf, where the most expensive wines get prime exposure.
While we would love to drink only the top-shelf lineup, part of the fun and the challenge of enjoying wine is finding the true bargains. To find those, you have to cast your eyes downward to the bottom shelf, be brave and take a chance.
Banrock Station is a bargain Australian wine that is not a risk. The merlot was much smoother than we anticipated with plenty of fruit flavor and balanced tannins. A pleasant wine that’s easy on the wallet.
Sherry: “Peppery, black cherry with a light touch of vanilla.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Cherry and plum with a faint wisp of smoke.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $4.
Coming next week: Chateau Saint Sulpice Bordeaux

Chateau St. Sulpice Bordeaux 2004
If you wanted to visit every wine producer in the Bordeaux region of France at the rate of one per day, it would take you more than 27 years.
That’s because there are more than 10,000 producers who make more than 660 million bottles of wine each year in Bordeaux, 80 percent of which is red.
Some of the prestigious Bordeaux wines come from large estates, are very expensive and best when aged. But others are called petite chateau, because they don’t come from a large estate, are much less expensive and ready for drinking. Chateau Saint Sulpice Bordeaux falls into this category.
This is classic Bordeaux, with a blend of 70 percent merlot, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and 10 percent cabernet franc. The wine has earthy and peppery aroma, leaning toward the dry side with plenty of body and texture. This is a very affordable taste of France.
Sherry: “Cherry, black currant, licorice and clove.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Plum and black cherry, layered with spice.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Ménage a Trois Rosé  

Ménage à Trois 2005 Rose

It may be hard to get past the title, but combining a suggestive name with a blush wine is a one clever double entendre.
California winemaker Folie a Deux says the inspiration for the Ménage à Trois line refers not to sex but to the French term for blending of three – in this case the grapes merlot, syrah and gewurztraminer. While hardly an act that challenges the morality of the wine world, adding the the white grape gewurztraminer to the two reds is interesting and, as the winemaker says, preserves “the exotic spice and naked fruit.”
Clever quips aside, sales of blush wines like this rose are enjoying a renaissance of sorts from the days of the 1970s Lancers and Mateus. This is a fresh wine with no unabashed pretense and plenty of fruit.
Sherry: “Strawberry, lime and orange.” (2.5 stars)
Chris: “A floral aroma with a raspberry and strawberry flavors.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay

Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay 2005

White wine challengers come and go, but chardonnay is still the king of white wines and the most popular wine variety sold in the U.S., with 24 percent of the market sales, according to The Nielsen Co.
The top chardonnay brand by far for many years running has been Kendall-Jackson’s Vintner’s Reserve, the label which represents the bread – and dare we say “butter” – of the Kendall-Jackson wine empire, which last year shipped 4.1 million cases.
We’ve said before that we’re not big chardonnay fans, but our choice would be chardonnays that are rich and creamy. K-J certainly fits into that category, with apple and stone-fruit flavors in creamy layers.
The biggest may not always be the best, but K-J certainly backs its wines with quality.
Sherry: “Delicate apple and pear, with a buttery finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Pineapple, pear and vanilla with a rich finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $12.
Coming next week: Ruffino Aziano Chianti Classico

Ruffino Aziano Chianti Classico 2005

Every time we open a bottle made by Ruffino we pay homage to cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino who founded the winery in 1877. Still family-owned and tightly-controlled today, the winery produces quality and diverse wines from its Tuscan Estates.
A wine has to meet specific production rules and regulations to earn a Chianti Classico title, which can be found in all their glory at www.chianticlassico.com. At least 80 percent of the wine must be sangiovese grape, which is extremely sensitive to terrain and climate, the heart and soul of great wine.
Rules or not, this is excellent wine at a great value – less than half the price of the esteemed Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva but almost as good. Medium-bodied, yet very smooth, it has a complexity meant to be savored.
Sherry: “Dry, dark black cherry with a peppery spice.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Notes of tobacco and leather with black cherry fruit.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $10.
Coming next week: Badger Mountain Riesling

Badger Mountain Riesling 2006
Organic wine sales continue to grow, with U.S. sales reaching $80 million in 2005, an increase of 28 percent over 2004. While the sales are just 1 percent of the market, they are expected to grow 17 percent a year through 2008, the Organic Trade Association projects.
Badger Mountain Riesling is one of the few organic wines that qualify for the USDA’s certified organic label because it does not add sulfite to its wine. Sulfites naturally occur in wine fermentation, but most winemakers add more to preserve the wine.
All of this adds up to a wine that is meant to be consumed young and fresh, which is evident from the time the screw top is opened. The aroma of fresh apple is intense and a hint of flowers comes from a small amount of muscat canelli grape added to the wine.
Sherry: “Slightly dry, subtle apple with a nutty, almond finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Honey and apples with a crisp finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $7.50.
Coming next week: PKNT Carmenere

PKNT Carmenere 2005

The marketing adage of selling the sizzle and not the steak certainly applies in the wine industry, where attractive bottles and labels vie for the consumer’s eye on crowded shelves.
This new label from Chile features a prominent red pepper, a symbol of its name (pronounced pi-kan-tey), which refers to hot and spicy food. The winemaker says “the wine isn’t spicy, but its effect is.” 
We viewed this cheesy sizzle with a note of skepticism, but are happy to report that the steak is just fine. Carmenere is one of our favorites and this wine has all of the signature dark red fruit, spice and soft tannins that we enjoy at a pretty fair price.
Sherry: “Slight leather aroma, with black cherry and a licorice finish.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Black cherry, plum and pepper.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $7.
Coming next week: Clos du Bois Zinfandel

Clos du Bois Zinfandel 2004

You might be tempted to look for this wine with a French name on the import shelf, but it actually comes from select vineyards in northern California. Pronounced “clo-de-bwah,” the name means enclosed by wood.
Wood in the form of French, American and eastern European oak was used for 14 months to finish this wine, which includes a small portion (9 percent) of petite sirah. Vintage notes show an early harvest with lower yields, resulting in full flavors and soft tannins.
Inky purple in the glass, this wine reveals notes of dark berries followed by juicy fruit flavors and a pleasant, trademark spicy finish. It’s a nice match for beef stew or other hearty, red meat favorites on your menu this fall.
Sherry: “Robust plum and black cherry, with light tones of licorice.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Juicy cherry and blackberry with a zesty, peppermint finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.50.
Coming next week: Little Black Dress

Little Black Dress Pinot Grigio 2006

We don’t view wine as a male or female beverage, but Little Black Dress is a brand aimed directly at the estimated 34 million female wine drinkers in the U.S.
The brand was launched in 2006 to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the iconic little black dress created by Coco Chanel in 1926. Packaged in an eye-catching bottle, the wine touts itself as simple, elegant, versatile and reliable.
The wine does have some charm. There’s a splash of chardonnay, viognier and muscat to give the wine a sweet floral and stone fruit perfume Chanel would have approved of. Although this would not be a staple of our wine wardrobe, this wine is crisp and fresh; perhaps even a little playful.
Sherry: “Citrus fruit and spice with a light almond finish.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Pear and honey notes with tart apple and peach flavors.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Chateau St. Croix Winery Cheesehead White and Helga’s Red

Chateau St. Croix Winery Cheesehead White and Helga’s Red

To mark today’s gridiron match-up between the Green Bay Packers and Minnesota Vikings; we present two wines from one of Wisconsin’s newest wineries (www.chateaustcroix.com).
Located north of Stillwater where team allegiance is split, Chateau St. Croix Winery has put some clever marketing into these brands. The cheesehead and purple horn bottle tops are the telltale signs.
Helga’s is a blend of syrah and five other grapes and aged for a year in oak while Cheesehead is made from muscat canelli, a very sweet grape. It’s a contrasting clash of purple vs. gold.
 While Sherry judged both wines equal, the normally red-favoring Chris let his green and gold bias show through, giving the nod to Cheesehead, even though the spread is close. 
Helga’s Red
Sherry: “Peppery blackcurrant, with cherry and clove.” (3 stars)
Chris: “A musty, leather note with flavors of black sherry and chocolate.” (2.5 stars)
Cheesehead White
Sherry: “Floral orange-blossom bouquet with sweet citrus and pineapple taste. (3 stars)
Chris: “Honeyed pineapple, orange blossom and apricot.” (3 stars)
Each available locally for about $11.  
Coming next week: Toad Hollow Pinot Noir Rose

Toad Hollow “Eye of the Toad” Dry Pinot Noir Rosé 2006

If you’re supposed to bring a bottle of wine as you head over the river and through the woods for Thanksgiving this year, Eye of the Toad would be a good companion with grandmother’s turkey.
We normally recommend a white wine with turkey, which does not pair well with heavier reds. With rosé sales hot, we decided to go pink this year. This wine is fresh, crisp and dry, pairing nicely with turkey.
On a sad note, this is the first Thanksgiving without Toad Hollow co-founder Todd “Dr. Toad” Williams, who died in August. Williams may be gone, but his wine-making legacy lives on.
Sherry: “Surprisingly dry, with a citrus, lime taste. Completely different from what I expected after inhaling the lovely, fragrant bouquet.” (2.5 stars)
Chris: “Flower blossoms on the nose, with citrus flavors and just a hint of strawberry.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.50
Coming next week: The Show

The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The winemakers who launched The Three Thieves jug wines that made a big splash in 2003 are back with another foray into the fun.

Again the bottle is unique, with its gradual shoulders and heavy glass adorned with three different labels, all inspired by Nashville’s Hatch Show Print. Hatch has created posters for legendary stars and events for more than 125 years.

But there is some go with the show. The wine is a blend of three California region cabernet sauvignon grapes (80 percent) with smaller percentages of merlot, cabernet franc, petite sirah and petite verdot.

The result is a big, deep jammy wine with bright, berry flavors and a luscious finish. With wines like this, we hope the thieves keep having fun.

Available locally for about $11.

Sherry: “Big, bold peppery cherry and berry flavors.” 3-1/2 stars

Chris: “Spicy black cherry with a dash of vanilla.” 3-1/2 stars

Coming next week: Manyana Crianza

Manyana Crianza 2001

Our column this week could be called “upon further review.”
In March 2005 we reviewed a 2002 Manyana, made from tempranillo grapes. We both enjoyed the Spanish wine, but said it had a young, fruity taste that would not benefit from further aging.
OK, so maybe we were wrong. This Manyana Crianza (which means aged) is a year older and has the benefit of six months of oak aging, followed by six months of bottle aging. The result is well-balanced wine with red berry flavors and notes of toast and spice. It certainly has more depth than its younger cousin, but is still a good value.
Being wrong never tasted this right.
Sherry: “Fruit tastes of berry, black currant and clove.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Spicy cherry with a slight tobacco nose and an enjoyable finish.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $8.
Coming next week: Renwood Viognier

Renwood Viognier 2004

Viognier (pronounced vee-on-yay) achieved near cult-wine status in the 1990s as the nearly extinct grape variety gained new life with plantings in California.
The white wine still has its devotees and even a Web site (www.enjoyingviognier.com) extolling its virtues. It’s the only white wine produced by Renwood, perhaps because it’s a challenge to grow and has unique characteristics similar to red wine grapes.
That probably explains why we enjoyed this wine, which has plenty of structure to accompany the citrus fruit and floral aroma. It’s balanced with a dash of semillon and marsanne grapes and finishes with a spicy zest. The high alcohol content (13.5 percent) is typical of California viogniers.
Sherry: “Juicy citrus. Lime and grapefruit, with a touch of pear and almond. (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Peach, green apple and pear with a hint of cream.” (3.5 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Columbia Crest Grand Estates Shiraz

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Shiraz 2003

‘Tis the season for holiday parties and whether you’re bringing a bottle or serving at your own party, this selection from Columbia Crest will be well received.
The Grand Estates series comes from select vineyards in the Cascade Mountains in Washington, where the 2003 vintage received ideal growing and harvest conditions. The shiraz grapes spent seven to 10 days fermenting on skins and were aged for 12 to 14 months in French and American oak. A blend of viognier was added during fermentation, which shows up in the surprisingly floral bouquet one doesn’t expect from a red.
This is an elegant wine with bright red fruit flavors but plenty of texture and a silky, smooth finish. It also won’t break your holiday-strapped budget.
Sherry: “Smooth, fruity black currant and cherry with a touch of clove.” 3.5 stars
Chris: “Raspberry and cherry with a tantalizing twist of spice.” 3.5 stars
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Peter Lehmann Cabernet

Peter Lehmann Barossa Cabernet 2002

As we move into winter and celebrate the holidays, in the land down under the 2008 vintage is soaking up the summer sun.
Six years ago the Barossa region of Australia had one of the coolest summers on record, resulting in what Andrew Wigan, chief winemaker of Peter Lehmann Wines, called “probably the best cabernet vintage I’ve ever seen in the Barossa.”
Recent vintages have been consistent as well, making this wine an excellent choice for your holiday meal, especially if prime rib or beef is one the menu. This is an inky-dark wine with a bouquet of currants and a whiff of leather to show that it’s aging nicely. Linger over the many layers of flavor and enjoy the smooth finish.
Sherry: “Raisin, soft black currant, herbs and licorice.” (3.5 stars)
Chris: “Blackberry and raisins with a touch of anise.” (4 stars)
Available locally for about $13.
Coming next week: Domaine Ste. Michelle Frizzante  

Domaine Ste. Michelle Frizzante

‘Tis the season for sparkling wine, with the holidays accounting for nearly half of some label’s annual sales.
While ringing in the new year is a traditional time for drinking champagne or sparkling wine, sales are picking up year-round. The 2007 Impact Annual Wine Study showed sparkling sales were up 4 percent in 2006.
This frizzante – what Italians call sparkling wine – comes from Washington’s Columbia Valley, where a non-vintage cuvee of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes undergoes the traditional methode champenoise, a natural fermentation resulting in the wine’s effervescence.
This sparkling wine falls in between the very sweet spumantes and the tart champagnes. There’s a lively balance of fruit and fermentation which results in a very approachable wine.
Sherry: “Dry, with a light, citrus and pear taste.” (3 stars)
Chris: “Hints of apple and pear with a tart finish.” (3 stars)
Available locally for about $9.
Coming next week: Vampire Pinot Noir